Waylaid by Laos

Months of research went into my trip to Myanmar. With Laos, there was none of that.

I had cut out and packed the thin Laos section of my SE Asia guidebook, but hadn’t actually read it. I didn’t know what to expect. Really, the main reason I went was to visit my friend who had moved there recently.

But, Laos is one of those places that takes you by the collar, shakes you around a bit, and makes you pay attention.

I wasn’t really taken with it at first. The capital, Vientiane, was ridiculously hot, humid, had lots of cars, trucks, motorcycles, tuk-tuks, and traffic.

I was shushed on multiple occasions for wondering aloud about the government – not even saying anything bad about it, just wondering. Imagine causing cringe-inducing shudders with only a whisper. I don’t think I got anyone in trouble, but it certainly made me curious about the place.

Note to self: thoroughly research what you should NOT say before your next trip.

It wasn’t all entirely upsetting though. The highlight of the city was the Mekong river which curves along the downtown. A paved promenade along the river was THE hangout once it was cool enough. The promenade hosts a night market, community aerobics, young people cruising and looking good, and kids doing crazy tricks on bikes. Essentially a fabulous place for people watching.

Vientiane also had my new favorite hangout – Joma Bakery Cafe. As a coffee snob, I was desperate for some good coffee after surviving on tea in Myanmar. They had real coffee, from local farms. And soy milk. I loved them for it.

After spending less than a day in the capital, I was ready for the short flight up country. I wanted to get away from the city and see what else the country had to offer. Luang Prabang changed my mind about Laos.